Blogi - Lillenberg

Lesson 1540. One of ten. I am trying to mill some

Lesson 1540. One of
ten. I am trying to mill some brass with my router. As I am still on the learning curve, I thought maybe it is a good idea to use chinese two-flute endmills for the learning purposes as they are literally ten times cheaper than renowned makers. I assumed the low price means they wear faster. Well,
no. The low price means the mills are prone to break at something an average mill takes without breaking sweat. If the chinese mill has any cutting geometry present that is. Out of 10 mills only four had any geometry resembling an endmill. The rest are just random cuts at the end, the is no cutting geometry whatsoever. Out of four that had any geometry only two actually had both flutes pronounced. The other two were usable as single flute ones. Three out of four broke at pretty random events. And the blue coating? Well, that is likely just heat painting. It wore off at the first contact with brass. This was a nice lesson learned. The chinese endmills are not for milling. I am heading back to real endmills. Cost more but break if your g-code/controller code makes it. 🐺

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Lesson 1539. Testing burrs on a test D5 exam piece

Lesson 1539. Testing burrs on a test D5 exam piece. Verdict: Burrs rule. In terms of finishing quality burrs beat both countersink tool and flat endmill. I have not tested the round endmill, but I doubt. The burrs are very good, specially whent it comea to brass. 🐺

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One can forever watch the pass of time as a pocket

One can forever watch the pass of time as a pocket watch balance wheel is tested for balance, pun intended. 🐺

Lesson 1538. Pavel Bure 1924 pocket watch restorat

Lesson 1538. Pavel Bure 1924 pocket watch restoration. Finished. More than 100 hours of work over 25 months, 17 instagram posts alone to cover the project. The watch arrived in so broken state that when I first introduced to my tutors at school, at lest one of them, looking at me with painful sympathy suggested, perhaps I’d like pick something else instead. More than 20 components (more, if we count balance parts) sourced, repaired, repolished, adjusted and made. Parts made for this pocket watch include: New seconds hand post, New yoke spring, new curb pin, new balance staff, a bridge screw. Repairs include: balance, balance spring, repivoting a lower pivot of the balance staff (yes, the one I made), the centre wheel. I am sure I have forgotten some. Adjustments include balance spring adjustments at the collet, at the stud and several places inbetween. New crystal and mainspring, adjusted and installed. New hour and minute hands adjusted and fitted. New pallet and lower balance jewel and upper cap jewel was fitted, all rub in. The list goes on. I am extremely happy with the results, it is also part of my school D14, Record of Repairs examination at BHI. The last three pictures show the watch when it arrived. I want to thank the BHI @clockandwatchuk and tutors Mr. Burtoft and Mr. Welbourne for all the help, tips, advice and patience. I also thank my family! Such understanding and huge support is truly admirable as the enormous amount of time have been surely taken at my kids and wifes expense. But most of all my thanks goes to the client who has been very supportive, patient and extremely understandig over this log long waiting time. Thank yoi @heikoleesment 🐺

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Lesson 1538. Fixing my somewhat faulty Schaublin

Lesson 1538. Fixing my somewhat faulty Schaublin 102. Being a magnificent two-speed motor lathe, mine lacked the faster speed option in both directions. It just shorted ot and killed the fuse every time I turned to faster speed. Needless to say, the uses of a lathe in that state is limited. I decided to figure out the wiring and see if anything could be wrong with that. Well, something must be. After some investigation, I did some minor changes (later they appeared to be irrelevant) and gave it a test. The lathe started working nicely in two speeds, yay! I reinstalled the cover for the motor wiring block. Next test resulted in a bang, short-out and a blown fuse again. Well, at least I knew now, something is wrong with the motor wiring block, because it worked fine without the cover. It appears that the block cover, when installed, pressed a wire into contact with another. And it manifested only at high speed option. I regulated the wiring placements and voila!Now it works. I am very hapy about that. 🐺

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Lesson 1537. BHI D5 exam preparation course. A Hi

Lesson 1537. BHI D5 exam preparation course. A Hindsight. After a five very long days, (last three went without a lunch for me) the workshop is over. What was the one major thing I learned? I think it’s the jigs. We made well over 10 jigs. Mostly for.. well, everything. Jigs for polishing, for filing to the tolerance, for better grip, for holding sanding paper, for filing to the correct angle, for marking, for keeping the sanding marks straight. You name it. I seldomly made a jig before. And I have always had a struggle to get things to exact angle, tolerance or shape. I has been a work of an eye mostly so far. With the jigs, it is a different story. Thank you scott and @clockandwatchuk for the course! 🐺

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Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day

Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day 5. I started off today with turning the arbor for the work. Everything went fine on Schaublin102 lathe until I turned the workpiece around to turn the other end. It appears that holding a 2.6mm piece by 1.3 end in a collet is little bit of a problem and it broke off. So I moved to a smaller lathe, a Sclhaublin 70 this time. An absolute marvel to work with. I turned and polished the arbor within the required 0.05mm tolerance. That took 4 hours. Next I moved on to file a 45 degree, 8.00 mm chamfer on the balance cock. Thanks to a 45 degree filing aide I got it alright with a no 4 file. Nice and clean. Then I removed the filing marks and gave the chamfer a bit more polished look. Next we moved to watch workshop and filed the four squares on the arbor. Did you know that to file an one mm wide flat you need to turn the piece to 1.41mm according to mr Pythagoras. And you got to remove 0.205 mm from each side. After that was finished we call it a day. It was meant to be a six day course, but I could attend to a five day one. We missed some polishing and bluing and tempering but all
in all I am very happy with the results! 🐺

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Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day

Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day 4. The work continues (Sorry for dirty fingers). The balance cock was prepolished and cut out to the desired shape today. The sides filed flat and prepolished. Screwhole measured and drilled. A screw and base plate made to required dimensions. Got some help here from Gary of BHI @clockandwatchuk (thanks). A hole drilled and tapped to
the base plate for the screw. Pin holes marked and drilled. Pins hammered in, cut flush and filed flat with the cock and the plate. Cock lower surface polished. Jewelhole marked,
drilled, brooched and reamed. We needed a 1.99mm hole
for the 2mm jewel. The video shows the marking of the jewel hole using a jewel staking tool. The oilsink burred and finished on the underside. The plate polished to
the mirror finish. The jewel fitted. Tomorrow we are going to
make the arbor and polish the cock surfaces to
the mirror finish. 🐺

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Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day

Lesson 1536. BHI D5 exam preparation course. Day 3. Making a new
balance cock. As you already guessed from the video perhaps, the first balance cock did not quite check it. So I decided to make a new one. We went a different technique on this one. Most of the cock is made on the lathe, no soldering. Prepolishing is also made on the lathe. That is what I have done full day today. Getting the measures down to 0.05 mm tolerance and prepolishing. There is some prepolishing left to do, then I will cut the balance cock out, file and polish the new surfaces. Steep learning curves, but fun.. 🐺

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